Universal Genève Polerouter Date “Duray” Ref. 204610 – Belgian-Signed Micro-Rotor Classic

Few vintage watches embody mid-century Swiss elegance and innovation as purely as the Universal Genève Polerouter. Designed by Gérald Genta at the age of just 23, the Polerouter became an icon thanks to its bold case design, pioneering micro-rotor movement, and timeless proportions. This Polerouter Date Ref. 204610 adds a remarkable twist: a rare “Duray” retailer signature, marking it as a Belgian-sold piece from one of the country’s distinguished jewelers.

This example unites historic design pedigree, mechanical innovation, and a rare provenance — a perfect storm for discerning collectors.

Case – Twisted Lugs, Defined Elegance

The 34mm stainless steel case reflects Genta’s early genius, with its sculptural twisted lugs creating dramatic interplay of light and shadow. The edges remain sharp and well-defined, preserving the architectural integrity that sets the Polerouter apart from its peers.

Capped with a period-correct plexiglass crystal and retaining its original Universal Genève-signed crown, the case speaks of authenticity and careful preservation.

Dial – Belgian-Signed “Duray” Rarity

The white crosshair dial is original and beautifully balanced, with just the right touch of light, even patina that underscores its vintage charm. Applied steel hour markers and dauphine hands reinforce the mid-century aesthetic.

What truly elevates this piece is the “Duray” retailer signature, marking its Belgian origins. Such co-signatures are increasingly sought-after for their rarity and the unique stories they tell of Swiss watches distributed through Europe’s great jewelers.

Movement – Micro-Rotor Innovation

Powering this Polerouter Date is the celebrated Calibre 215-2 automatic micro-rotor movement — a Universal Genève invention that revolutionized thin automatic watchmaking. This example has been recently serviced by a professional watchmaker, ensuring reliability and precision. Its efficiency and elegance remain a testament to Universal Genève’s technical artistry.

Strap – Modern Belgian Craft

This watch is fitted with a brand-new handmade black leather strap crafted in Belgium. Its artisanal quality offers a comfortable, refined wearing experience while providing a subtle nod to the watch’s Belgian provenance via its “Duray” retailer history.

Key Details:

• Model: Universal Genève Polerouter Date “Duray”

• Reference: 204610

• Year: 1960s

• Movement: Universal Genève Calibre 215-2, Automatic with Micro-Rotor, recently serviced

• Case Size: 34mm stainless steel

• Design: Gérald Genta, with iconic twisted lugs

• Crystal: Plexiglass

• Crown: Original Universal Genève-signed

• Dial: Original white crosshair, light patina, rare “Duray” retailer signature

• Strap: Brand-new Belgian handmade leather strap

• Condition: Excellent vintage condition; sharp case edges; recently serviced movement

Why This Watch?

The Universal Genève Polerouter is already a cornerstone of vintage collecting thanks to its Gérald Genta design and pioneering micro-rotor calibre. This Ref. 204610 example adds two highly desirable traits: an untouched, lightly patinated original dial and the exceptionally rare “Duray” Belgian retailer signature. Combined with a sharp case, serviced movement, and tasteful modern strap, it represents both technical innovation and cultural heritage.

For collectors seeking a Polerouter with genuine distinction, this watch offers rarity, authenticity, and enduring style.