Universal Genève Dress Watch Sub Seconds “Curved Galbée Lugs” 18k Gold Ref. 112132 from 1950s

Universal Genève Dress Watch Sub Seconds “Curved Galbée Lugs” – Ref. 112132
18K Yellow Gold, Calibre 262 | Circa 1940s–1950s

A refined and elegant example of mid-century Universal Genève craftsmanship, this 18K yellow gold dress watch with sub seconds perfectly captures the understated sophistication for which the brand is celebrated. Featuring beautifully curved galbée lugs and a harmonious dial layout, this reference stands as a timeless expression of classic Swiss watchmaking.

Elegant Case Design

The solid 18K yellow gold case is distinguished by its wide, gracefully curved galbée lugs, lending the watch exceptional wrist presence while maintaining a slim, elegant profile. The case appears to be unpolished, retaining its original geometry and sharp lines—a highly desirable trait for collectors of vintage Universal Genève.

An unsigned crown, believed to be the original, further reinforces the period-correct authenticity of this piece.

Original Dial with Character

The watch features a stunning original dial, preserved with a light and even patina that has developed naturally over time. The design is both balanced and visually engaging, highlighted by:

• Open 9 numeral

• An outer minute track with a subtle mirror-style two-tone finish

• Sub seconds register positioned at 6 o’clock

These elements combine to create a dial that is elegant yet full of character, showcasing Universal Genève’s exceptional sense of proportion and design.

Classic Hands & Details

Blue steel hands provide a refined contrast against the warm tones of the dial, enhancing legibility while adding a touch of understated color. The watch is fitted with a hand-made leather strap from Belgium, perfectly complementing its vintage aesthetic.

Precision from Within

Powering the watch is the renowned Universal Genève Calibre 262, a manually wound movement celebrated for its reliability and fine construction. This example has been serviced by our watchmaker and is working very well, ready for regular wear or careful collection.

Specifications

• Brand: Universal Genève

• Reference: 112132

• Year: Circa 1940s–1950s

• Case: 32,5mm Solid 18K Yellow Gold

• Lugs: Curved Galbée lugs

• Dial: Original, with even patina and two-tone minute track

• Hands: Blue steel

• Seconds: Sub seconds at 6 o’clock

• Movement: Universal Genève Calibre 262 (manual wind)

• Condition: Case appears unpolished; highly original example

• Strap: Hand-made leather strap (Belgium)

• Case Serial: 1,042,753

• Movement Serial: 185,235

Final Thoughts

Elegant, honest, and beautifully preserved, this Universal Genève dress watch is a superb example of the brand’s golden-era production. With its original dial, unpolished 18K gold case, and classic Calibre 262 movement, it represents a highly wearable and increasingly collectible piece of vintage horology.