Rolex Day-Date Oyster Perpetual 18K Yellow Gold Black Dial Ref. 18238 from 1990
Rolex Day-Date Oyster Perpetual 18K Yellow Gold Black Dial Ref. 18238 from 1990
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Rolex Day-Date Oyster Perpetual – 18K Yellow Gold Black Dial (Ref. 18238, Circa 1990)
The Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18238, often called the President, stands as one of the most distinguished and iconic watches ever produced. Crafted entirely in 18K yellow gold and featuring a rare black dial, this 1990 example embodies both prestige and timeless elegance—an unmistakable symbol of refinement from Rolex’s golden era.
The Case – Golden Proportion and Presence
The 36 mm 18K yellow gold Oyster case exemplifies Rolex’s signature blend of durability and luxury. Its fluted bezelshines brilliantly after a careful fresh polish, while the case itself remains crisp, solid, and beautifully proportioned. The serial E prefix confirms production around 1990, placing this watch firmly within the transitional era when Rolex introduced technical innovations such as the double quick-set function.
Following the polish and resealing, the case underwent a successful 5-bar pressure test, confirming both integrity and readiness for wear. The Rolex-signed crown and sapphire crystal further attest to the brand’s commitment to precision and resilience.
The Dial – Rare Black Elegance
The original black Rolex dial gives this Day-Date a distinctly refined and powerful presence. Its deep gloss surface serves as a striking backdrop for the applied gold hour markers and matching gold hands, creating an elegant contrast that elevates the watch’s visual depth.
Black dials on vintage 18238s are comparatively rare, making this example especially sought-after among collectors. The day and date apertures—the defining features of the model—stand out sharply, perfectly framed by the iconic fluted bezel.
The Movement – Rolex Calibre 3155, Double Quick-Set Precision
Inside beats the Rolex Calibre 3155, an automatic movement known for its reliability, precision, and convenience. Introduced in the late 1980s, the 3155 brought the double quick-set function, allowing independent adjustment of both the day and date—an advancement that set a new standard for usability.
This calibre remains a cornerstone of Rolex engineering, admired for its robustness and smooth operation, embodying the brand’s relentless pursuit of mechanical excellence.
The Bracelet – The Iconic President
The watch is fitted with its matching 18K yellow gold President bracelet, a hallmark of the Day-Date line. It features the classic semi-circular links that flow seamlessly from the case, ensuring both comfort and sophistication. The bracelet shows moderate stretch consistent with age and accommodates wrists up to approximately 18 cm.
The combination of gold warmth, refined architecture, and unmistakable prestige makes the President bracelet one of the most recognizable in horology.
Key Details
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Model: Rolex Day-Date Oyster Perpetual “President”
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Reference: 18238
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Year: Circa 1990 (E-Serial)
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Movement: Rolex Calibre 3155, Automatic, Double Quick-Set Day-Date
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Case Material: 18K Yellow Gold
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Case Size: 36 mm
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Dial: Original Black Rolex Dial
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Bezel: 18K Yellow Gold Fluted Bezel
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Crystal: Sapphire Glass
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Crown: Rolex Signed Crown
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Bracelet: 18K Yellow Gold President, ~18 cm max size (light stretch)
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Condition: Excellent overall – freshly polished, pressure-tested, and ready to wear
Why This Watch?
The Rolex Day-Date 18238 is the embodiment of prestige, but this particular example—with its rare black dial—elevates that reputation even further. The combination of deep black, radiant gold, and perfect proportions gives it a commanding yet elegant presence.
Backed by the robust Calibre 3155, a flawless sapphire crystal, and verified water resistance, this watch marries everyday practicality with timeless luxury. For collectors and connoisseurs alike, this 1990 Day-Date represents the golden standard of Rolex craftsmanship—sophisticated, iconic, and enduringly powerful.
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