Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 – A Rare 1949 Central Seconds Example with Box
An exceptional and historically significant timepiece, this Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 from 1949 is a rare and highly collectible example of one of the most elegant wristwatches ever created. What sets this particular piece apart is its central seconds complication, an unusual feature for this reference, making it a true rarity in the world of vintage Patek Philippe.
A Specially Requested Central Seconds Feature
Unlike the traditional sub-seconds layout found in most Calatrava 96 models, this watch features a central seconds hand, a feature made possible by Patek Philippe’s highly exclusive Calibre 12-120SC movement. First introduced in 1939, this was Patek Philippe’s very first wristwatch movement with a central seconds—a complex modification at the time, produced in extremely limited numbers.
The presence of this feature suggests that this Ref. 96 was likely a special commission for a VIP client, further adding to its uniqueness and desirability among collectors.
Elegant and Timeless Design
The 31mm 18k yellow gold case remains in good condition, retaining its original hallmarks on the side, a testament to the watch’s well-preserved nature. The Patek Philippe service crown, featuring the Calatrava cross, ensures authenticity while maintaining the original design language of this legendary reference.
Adding to its exclusivity, this watch is accompanied by its period-correct Patek Philippe box, signed "Patek Philippe & Co.", just like the dial—an extremely rare find, as 1940s Patek Philippe wristwatch boxes are seldom seen on the market.
A Dial with Character
The silver dial, while appearing to have been restored in the past, still maintains the essence of the original Calatrava aesthetic. The highlight of the dial is the striking blue central seconds hand, an eye-catching feature that beautifully contrasts against the understated elegance of the gold case. This detail adds a touch of uniqueness and makes this Ref. 96an even more mesmerizing piece.
Specifications:
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Reference: 96
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Year: 1949
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Movement: Patek Philippe Calibre 12-120SC (First central seconds wristwatch movement from Patek Philippe)
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Movement Number: 864xxx
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Case Material: 18k Yellow Gold, hallmarks intact
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Case Size: 31mm
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Dial: Silver, previously restored
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Hands: Gold dauphine hands with a striking blue central seconds hand
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Crown: Patek Philippe service crown with Calatrava logo
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Box: Original Patek Philippe & Co. signed 1940s presentation box
Why This Watch?
This Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 is not just a timepiece—it is a rare historical artifact. The central seconds feature, limited production calibre, and period-correct box make it a highly desirable collector’s piece.
With most Ref. 96 models featuring sub-seconds at 6 o’clock, this central seconds variation is a true anomaly, adding an exclusive charm to an already legendary reference. Whether for a seasoned Patek Philippe collector or an admirer of mid-century horology, this 1949 Calatrava 96 represents a piece of watchmaking history that is seldom seen on the market.
