Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil ‘Turtle Shell’ Brown Wood Dial PM – Circa 1980s
Now with original Cartier leather strap and Cartier vermeil buckle
A striking and elusive creation from Cartier’s golden age of artistic dial experimentation, this Tank Must de Vermeil PMstands out with its rare brown wood ‘turtle shell’ dial—a dial that reflects the maison’s bold creativity during the early 1980s. Now further elevated with its original Cartier leather bracelet and signed vermeil buckle, this piece exemplifies both collector-grade authenticity and timeless Parisian elegance.
Key Features
Case: 20mm x 28mm classic Tank-shaped case in gold-plated sterling silver(vermeil), with clean lines and a refined vintage profile.
Dial: Rare original brown wood 'turtle shell' dial—a shimmering and grain-rich pattern evoking natural depth and warmth.
Hands: Signature gold-tone sword hands, elegant and legible, enhancing the harmony of the warm-toned dial.
Movement: Manual-wind Cartier Caliber 78-1, recently serviced and running flawlessly.
Strap & Buckle: Now offered on the original Cartier brown leather strap with a genuine Cartier vermeil buckle, further reinforcing its provenance and collector appeal.
Condition Report
This vintage Cartier Tank Must is in very good original condition:
The vermeil case retains its soft, warm luster with sharp edges and minimal signs of wear.
The wood dial is pristine, with only small cracks or discoloration—rare for a piece of this era.
The manual movement has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time.
The original Cartier strap remains in excellent condition, lightly handled, and pairs naturally with the richness of the dial.
The signed Cartier buckle is unpolished and well-preserved, completing the authentic ensemble.
Why Collectors Love It
Cartier’s Tank Must collection introduced a range of creative dial treatments in the 1970s and 1980s, but few have captured attention quite like the ‘turtle shell’ wood dial—both rare and elegant. The addition of the original Cartier strap and buckle transforms this piece from beautiful to museum-worthy.
Whether you're an admirer of Cartier’s design heritage or a seasoned vintage watch collector, this Tank offers a rare combination of aesthetic charm, mechanical integrity, and complete Cartier originality.
