Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil ‘Turtle Shell’ Brown Wood Dial GM – Circa 1980s
This rare GM-sized Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil from the early 1980s features one of the Maison’s most enchanting and elusive dial designs: the “turtle shell” brown wood dial. Rich in organic texture and visual depth, it radiates vintage character while anchored in Cartier’s timeless Tank silhouette. This particular example is presented in its larger 23 x 30 mm case, paired with a handcrafted Belgian leather strap, a standard gold-plated buckle, and Cartier service papers from 1990—a refined and complete vintage set.
Key Features
Case: 23 x 30 mm gold-plated sterling silver (vermeil); elegant and proportionate with a refined wrist presence.
Dial: Original “turtle shell” brown wood dial with striking spider effect and minor age-consistent imperfections. A deeply textured surface with chocolate tones and swirling grain.
Hands: Classic Cartier gold-tone sword hands.
Movement: Manual-wind Cartier Caliber 78-1; recently serviced and running accurately.
Strap & Buckle: Hand-made Belgian leather strap paired with a standard gold-plated tang buckle—elegant and well-crafted.
Crystal: Original mineral crystal in perfect, unmarred condition.
Papers: Includes original Cartier service papers from September 1990, verifying its professional maintenance history.
Condition and Details
This watch is in excellent vintage condition. The vermeil case retains its warm golden glow and sharp lines. The unique wooden dial is especially captivating, featuring a rare spider effect and only minor natural imperfections, adding character without compromise. The mineral glass is flawless. The manual movement has been freshly serviced and winds smoothly. The strap and buckle combination—handmade in Belgium and plated in gold—completes the refined vintage look. With accompanying Cartier service documentation, this piece reflects the care and attention given by its previous owner.
Why It’s Special
Desirable GM Sizing: Larger than the PM model yet perfectly balanced for classic elegance.
Rare Dial Design: The spider-textured wood grain dial is a work of art—organic, layered, and rarely seen.
Original Papers: Cartier service papers from September 1990 highlight a history of proper care.
Premium Craftsmanship: Featuring a high-quality handmade strap and reliable manual movement.
Collector Integrity: Flawless crystal, serviced movement, and preserved accessories make this a standout.
A Collector’s Choice
Combining artistry, rarity, and authenticity, this Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil GM from the 1980s is an exceptional timepiece with provenance. Backed by Cartier service records and preserved in excellent condition, it’s a sophisticated addition to any collection or a powerful everyday statement in vintage style.
