Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil ‘Turtle Shell’ Brown Wood Dial GM – Circa 1980s
This rare GM-sized Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil from the early 1980s features one of the Maison’s most enchanting and elusive dial designs: the “turtle shell” brown wood dial. Rich in organic texture and visual depth, it radiates vintage character while anchored in Cartier’s timeless Tank silhouette. This particular example is presented in its larger 23 x 30 mm case, paired with its original dark brown Cartier leather strap and authentic Cartier gold-plated buckle—a complete and collectible vintage set.
Key Features:
Case: 23 x 30 mm gold-plated sterling silver (vermeil); a refined presence with elegant wrist coverage and signature Tank proportions.
Dial: Original “turtle shell” brown wood dial, showcasing deep chocolate hues and swirling natural grain. Exceptionally well-preserved.
Hands: Gold-tone sword hands in classic Cartier style.
Movement: Manual-wind Cartier Caliber 78-1; recently serviced and performing reliably.
Strap & Buckle:Original Cartier dark brown leather strap and original Cartier gold-plated tang buckle – a rare matching set from the period.
Crystal: Original mineral crystal with a minor, nearly imperceptible imperfection at the right corner. It does not affect legibility or detract from the overall presentation, but is noted for completeness.
Condition and Details:
This watch is in excellent vintage condition overall. The vermeil case retains its warm golden tone and sharp definition. The unique wooden dial is the highlight—untouched, unmarred, and deeply expressive in both texture and tone. The movement has been recently serviced for accuracy and smooth winding. The original Cartier strap and buckle are in very good condition, adding both value and authenticity. The crystal presents a tiny flaw near the right edge, barely visible to the naked eye, yet disclosed in the spirit of transparency.
Why It’s Special:
Desirable GM Sizing: Slightly more substantial than the PM variant, while preserving Cartier’s elegant wrist profile.
Exotic Dial Rarity: The wood grain ‘turtle shell’ dial is among Cartier’s most artistic vintage designs.
Original Accessories: Retaining both the original strap and gold-plated Cartier buckle—a collector’s dream.
Honest Condition: Minor imperfection on the crystal is insignificant in wear, but noted for full disclosure.
A Collector’s Choice
Bridging heritage, artistry, and design, this Cartier Tank Must de Vermeil GM is not only rare—it’s authentic, complete, and full of quiet charisma. A distinctive addition to any serious collection or a refined vintage statement for daily wear.
