Cartier Tank Must de Art Deco Black Dial Vermeil Ref 5057001 from 1990s

Cartier Must de Tank Vermeil Black Art Deco “Spider” Dial
Reference 5057001 · 1990s

An emblem of Cartier’s enduring mastery of design, this Cartier Must de Tank Vermeil from 1990s showcases one of the most striking and characterful dials of the Must collection. Featuring a black Art Deco dial with a rare spider effect, accented by oversized gilt Roman numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, this piece embodies bold elegance while remaining unmistakably Cartier.

Further elevating its desirability, the watch is accompanied by Cartier service papers dating back to 1994, adding documented provenance and reinforcing its authenticity.

Art Deco Dial – Rare & Expressive

The deep black dial exhibits a distinctive spider-web effect, creating subtle texture and depth that shifts beautifully under light. Large gold Roman numerals anchor the dial with strong Art Deco presence, offering dramatic contrast and exceptional legibility. This dial configuration is among the most sought-after Must de Tank variants, far less common than champagne or traditional Roman dials.

Classic Tank Case – Vermeil Elegance

The iconic 20 × 28mm Tank case is crafted in vermeil—sterling silver coated in thick 18K gold plating—retaining Cartier’s refined proportions and unmistakable silhouette. The case presents in excellent condition, showing only minimal wear consistent with careful ownership.

Quartz Precision – Cartier Reliability

Inside beats a Cartier quartz calibre, known for its precision, dependability, and effortless ownership. The movement functions perfectly, aligning with Cartier’s reputation for reliable luxury timepieces during this era.

Strap & Finishing Touches

The watch is paired with a black leather strap, hand made in Belgium, offering both quality craftsmanship and period-correct aesthetics. It is secured by a standard gold-plated buckle, maintaining the watch’s elegant and understated profile.

Provenance & Condition

• Cartier service papers dated 1994

• Overall condition is excellent

• Dial remains deep black with a clearly visible spider effect

• Case shows only light wear

• Mineral crystal is clean and clear

• Movement runs accurately

Key Details:

• Model: Cartier Must de Tank Vermeil

• Reference: 5057001

• Year: 1990s

• Case Size: 20 × 28mm

• Case Material: Vermeil (Sterling Silver with 18K Gold Plating)

• Dial: Black Art Deco “Spider” Dial with Gilt Roman Numerals

• Movement: Cartier Quartz 057

• Strap: Black Leather, Hand Made in Belgium

• Buckle: Regular Gold-Plated Standard Buckle

• Condition: Excellent

• Extras: Cartier Service Papers (1994)

Why This Watch?

This Must de Tank stands out for its rare black spider-effect dial, documented Cartier service history, and outstanding condition. It captures the essence of late 1980s Cartier design—bold yet refined, artistic yet timeless.

For collectors seeking a distinctive Must de Tank with strong visual character and genuine provenance, this example represents an exceptional and increasingly hard-to-find opportunity.