Cartier Tank Louis Ref. 78087 – Paris-Dial Classic in 18K Yellow Gold

Timeless, elegant, and resolutely Parisian, the Cartier Tank Louis Ref. 78087 represents the pinnacle of 20th-century wristwatch design. This exquisite example from the 1980s, rendered in solid 18K yellow gold, features the highly desirable "Cartier Paris" signed dial, marking it as one of the more collectible versions of this iconic dress watch.

A True Paris Original – The Design

With its elegantly proportioned 20x28mm case, the Tank Louis embodies Cartier’s enduring legacy of refined geometry. The design, inspired by the Renault tanks of WWI, has become a universal symbol of sophistication.

This example presents with a polished case, very shiny and eye-catching, still maintaining its classic form. A blue sapphire cabochon crown adds the unmistakable Cartier touch, while the mineral crystal preserves the vintage charm of its era.

The factory-original "Cartier Paris" dial, signed simply "Swiss" at 6 o'clock, has developed a pleasing patina, enhancing its vintage character. It showcases jet-black Roman numerals, an inner chemin-de-fer minute track, and blued steel sword hands—all in stunning harmony.

Calibre 78-1 – Cartier’s Manual Elegance

At its heart beats the manual-wind Calibre 78-1, recently serviced by a professional watchmaker. Smooth to wind and precise in function, this movement reflects Cartier's collaboration with Ebauches SA, offering lasting reliability in a slim, elegant form.

Fully inspected and running beautifully, the movement is backed by recent servicing and operates flawlessly—a detail as important as the watch’s visual pedigree.

Accessories

It is fitted with a handmade Belgian leather strap from Le Petit Suisse, while the original Cartier gold-plated buckle ties the ensemble back to its roots in Parisian luxury.

Specifications

• Reference: 78087

• Year: 1980s

• Case: 20 x 28mm solid 18K yellow gold, polished

• Dial: Cartier “Paris” signed dial with black Roman numerals, signed “Swiss”, showing patina

• Hands: Blued steel sword hands

• Crystal: Mineral glass

• Crown: Cartier sapphire cabochon crown

• Movement: Cartier Calibre 78-1, manual-wind – freshly serviced

• Strap: Handmade Belgian leather strap by Le Petit Suisse

• Buckle: Original Cartier gold-plated buckle

• Accessories: No box or papers

• Condition: Excellent vintage condition, polished case, dial with patina

Why This Watch?

The Cartier Tank Louis Ref. 78087 is the definitive expression of vintage Cartier elegance—small, but full of personality and historical importance. With its rare Paris dial, attractive patina, and freshly serviced movement, this piece offers an opportunity to own one of Cartier’s most iconic creations in collector-worthy form. Ideal for daily refinement or a curated vintage rotation, this Tank is truly an amazing piece—a slice of Paris on the wrist.