Cartier Santos Dumont Extra Plate GM Cal. Frédérique Piguet 21 Ref. 96054 from 1970s

Cartier Santos-Dumont Extra Plate GM Ref. 96054 – Louis Cartier Collection, Cal. Frédérique Piguet 21 (1970s)

An elegant expression of Cartier’s refined watchmaking during the 1970s, this Cartier Santos-Dumont Extra Plate GM from the Louis Cartier Collection embodies the timeless sophistication that defines the Santos line. Crafted in solid 18k yellow gold and powered by the ultra-thin Frédérique Piguet calibre 21, this example represents one of the most elegant interpretations of the Santos-Dumont ever produced.

The reference 96054 belongs to the Extra Plate series, celebrated for its remarkably slim profile and refined proportions, while the Grand Model (GM) case offers a slightly larger presence on the wrist without compromising the elegance that characterizes the design.

The Santos-Dumont Legacy

Originally created in 1904 for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos is widely considered one of the first purpose-built wristwatches in history. Its square case, exposed screws, and geometric proportions have become enduring signatures of Cartier design.

The Extra Plate variants introduced during the 1970s represent some of the most refined executions of the model. By pairing the Santos case with an ultra-thin movement, Cartier created a watch that wears with exceptional elegance and discretion.

This example is part of the Louis Cartier Collection, a line reserved for Cartier’s most traditional and refined dress watches.

Case – 18k Yellow Gold GM

The solid 18k yellow gold case measures 27 x 36mm, offering the desirable Grand Model size that wears beautifully on the wrist.

The case remains in amazing vintage condition, appearing largely unpolished with strong edges and well-defined proportions. Only the bezel has received a light professional polish to restore its original brilliance, while the rest of the case retains its crisp vintage character.

The classic Santos-Dumont architecture—with its rounded square bezel secured by visible screws—remains one of the most recognizable silhouettes in watch design.

Dial – Rare “Swiss Only” Dial

One of the most attractive features of this example is its beautifully preserved “Swiss only” dial.

Free from cracks and exceptionally well preserved, the dial retains its clean and balanced aesthetic with classic Roman numerals and elegant blued hands. The subtle “Swiss” signature at the bottom of the dial, without the later “Swiss Made” designation, is a characteristic detail appreciated by collectors of early Louis Cartier Collection pieces.

The dial’s condition is outstanding and contributes greatly to the overall charm of the watch.

Movement – Frédérique Piguet Calibre 21

Inside beats the Frédérique Piguet Calibre 21, one of the most respected ultra-thin manual-wound movements of its era.

Renowned for its refinement and reliability, the calibre 21 allowed Cartier to create the Extra Plate profile, giving the watch its distinctive slim elegance.

The movement has been freshly serviced and is keeping excellent time, ensuring both mechanical performance and long-term reliability.

Details & Condition

This Santos-Dumont remains in excellent vintage condition and retains many of its original elements.

Notable features include:

• Original sapphire crystal in very good condition

• Blue sapphire cabochon crown, a signature Cartier detail

• Original Cartier vermeil pin buckle

• Handmade ultra-thin black leather strap, bespoke crafted in Belgium to complement the slim profile of the watch

Together these elements preserve the refined character that defines the Extra Plate series.

Key Details

Model: Cartier Santos-Dumont Extra Plate GM
Reference: 96054
Collection: Louis Cartier Collection
Era: 1970s
Case Size: 27 x 36mm
Material: 18k Yellow Gold
Dial: Original “Swiss Only” Dial, Crack-Free and Well Preserved
Crystal: Original Sapphire Crystal
Crown: Blue Sapphire Cabochon Crown
Movement: Frédérique Piguet Calibre 21, Manual Wound, Freshly Serviced
Strap: Handmade Ultra-Thin Black Leather Strap (Belgium)
Buckle: Original Cartier Vermeil Pin Buckle

Why This Watch?

The Cartier Santos-Dumont Extra Plate represents one of the purest expressions of Cartier’s design philosophy: elegance, proportion, and mechanical refinement.

With its desirable GM size, ultra-thin Frédérique Piguet movement, and beautifully preserved “Swiss only” dial, this example captures the understated luxury of the Louis Cartier Collection during the golden era of 1970s watchmaking.

Rarely encountered in such condition, this Santos-Dumont Extra Plate stands as a refined collector’s piece and a timeless symbol of Cartier’s watchmaking heritage.