Cartier Panthère SM/PM Quartz – Factory Diamond Set
Ref. 86691 · 18K Yellow Gold · Haute Joaillerie
An unmistakable icon of 1980s–1990s Cartier design, the Panthère de Cartier is where watchmaking meets high jewelry. This exceptional example—reference 86691—is elevated to true haute joaillerie status with its original factory diamond setting on both the case and bracelet, complemented by a factory diamond-set crown. A radiant and confident statement, unmistakably Cartier.
The Panthère – A Design Icon
Introduced as the ultimate expression of elegance and fluidity, the Panthère is celebrated for its bracelet-first design. More jewel than watch, it drapes effortlessly over the wrist, moving with silk-like flexibility. This SM/PM-sized case (22mm)offers refined proportions, striking the perfect balance between presence and elegance—timeless, feminine, and unmistakably Parisian.
Factory Diamond Perfection
What truly sets this piece apart is its factory-set diamond configuration. The diamonds are meticulously placed across the case and bracelet, executed with Cartier’s exacting standards—balanced, luminous, and never excessive. Unlike aftermarket settings, the stones here sit flawlessly within the architecture of the watch, enhancing rather than overpowering the iconic Panthère design.
The diamond-set crown, signed by Cartier, adds a discreet yet luxurious finishing touch, reinforcing the watch’s jewelry-first identity.
Dial & Hands – Classic Cartier Restraint
The dial remains true to Cartier’s design DNA, featuring elegant blued steel hands that provide a refined contrast against the dial. Clear, legible, and timeless, the dial allows the diamond-set gold case and bracelet to take center stage while maintaining perfect visual harmony.
Protected by a spotless sapphire crystal, the watch presents beautifully, with no distractions from wear or age.
Quartz Precision – Cartier Cal. 057
Powering this Panthère is the Cartier Calibre 057 quartz movement, chosen for its slim profile, reliability, and practicality. Silent, precise, and effortless, it perfectly suits the Panthère’s role as a luxurious everyday jewel-watch.
Bracelet & Condition
The 18K yellow gold bracelet measures approximately 16.5cm and is in excellent condition, showing little to no stretch—a crucial point for collectors. The flexibility remains smooth and fluid, preserving the signature Panthère wearing experience.
Key Details:
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Model: Cartier Panthère SM / PM
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Reference: 86691
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Case Size: 22mm
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Case & Bracelet: 18K Yellow Gold, Factory Diamond Set
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Crown: Factory Diamond-Set Crown
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Movement: Cartier Cal. 057 Quartz
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Hands: Blued Steel
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Crystal: Sapphire, Spotless
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Bracelet Length: Approx. 16.5cm
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Condition: Excellent; minimal stretch, exceptional diamond setting
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Box: Original Cartier Red Box
Why This Watch?
The diamond-set Cartier Panthère is not merely a watch—it is a statement of confidence, elegance, and timeless luxury. With its factory diamond execution, fluid gold bracelet, and iconic design, this reference 86691 stands as one of Cartier’s most desirable jewel-watches.
Equally suited to day or evening wear, it embodies effortless sophistication and enduring value. A rare and captivating piece for the collector who appreciates Cartier at its most glamorous and refined.
