Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Lady Automatic – Stainless Steel | Reference 8638ST

A Rare and Historic Lady Royal Oak from the 1970s

This vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Lady Automatic, Reference 8638ST, represents the very first Royal Oak designed specifically for women. Introduced in 1976, the 8638 carried forward the revolutionary design language of the 5402 “Jumbo” of 1972, reinterpreted in a refined 29 mm case suited for a female clientele.

Crafted entirely in stainless steel, the case remains exceptionally sharp, with crisp bevels and the iconic octagonal bezel featuring exposed screws. The integrated bracelet, also in steel, is long and accommodates a wrist size of approximately 17–17.5 cm—rare for this reference and highly desirable for collectors.

Powered by the Self-Winding Calibre 2062

At its heart is the Audemars Piguet Calibre 2062, a compact yet robust self-winding movement based on a LeCoultre ébauche, celebrated for its slim architecture and reliability. This movement has benefited from multiple services over the years, supported by a wealth of accompanying documentation.

Brown Tropical Dial – Even and Beautifully Aged

The original dial has aged into a completely even tropical brown tone, lending the watch a warmth and individuality that can only develop over decades. Applied tritium hour markers and hands remain intact, adding depth and vintage character.

Provenance and Completeness

This example is accompanied by an impressive set of provenance and accessories:

• Original Audemars Piguet presentation box

• Outer cardboard box

• Official Audemars Piguet service letter

• Multiple service papers spanning decades

Historical Significance

• Introduced 1976: The first Royal Oak for women, expanding the Royal Oak family beyond the original 5402.

• Production: Approximately 3,889 pieces produced, mainly between 1976–1980, with sales extending into the early 1990s.

• Variants: Initially offered in steel, later joined by two-tone and precious metal executions.

Key Specifications

• Reference: 8638ST (Stainless Steel)

• Case: 29 mm, sharp stainless steel construction, sapphire crystal

• Movement: Audemars Piguet Cal. 2062 – automatic, serviced

• Dial: Brown tropical, evenly aged, with tritium markers and hands

• Bracelet: Integrated stainless steel, approx. 17–17.5 cm wrist size

• Crown: Original signed AP crown

A Collector’s Audemars Piguet

The Royal Oak Lady 8638ST is not simply a scaled-down version of its larger sibling; it is a landmark in Audemars Piguet’s history. With its sharp steel case, long bracelet, rare tropical brown dial, and full set of provenance, this example stands out as an exceptional opportunity for the discerning collector of vintage Royal Oaks.