Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Lady Automatic – Two-Tone Gold & Steel | Reference 8638SA

A Rare and Historic Lady Royal Oak from the 1970s

This vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Lady Automatic, Reference 8638SA, represents the very first Royal Oak designed specifically for women. Introduced in 1976, the 8638 carried forward the revolutionary design language of the 5402 “Jumbo” of 1972, reinterpreted in a refined 29 mm case suited for a female clientele.

Crafted in a striking combination of stainless steel and 18K yellow gold, this “SA” (Steel/Gold) execution is among the rarest and most desirable configurations. The case remains sharp and well-defined, preserving the iconic octagonal bezel with exposed screws and the integrated bracelet—a hallmark of Gérald Genta’s timeless design. The bracelet accommodates a wrist size of approximately 15.5–16 cm.

Powered by the Self-Winding Calibre 2062

Inside beats the compact yet robust Calibre 2062, a self-winding movement based on the LeCoultre ébauche, celebrated for its reliability and slim architecture. The movement has been recently serviced, ensuring excellent timekeeping and smooth performance.

Blue Dial with Tropical Aging

The original deep blue dial has aged gracefully, now turning tropical, with rich warm hues adding character and individuality. The applied luminous tritium hour markers and hands, intact and original, have developed a beautiful patina shifting toward a brown mustard tone, lending further vintage charm.

Historical Significance

• Introduced 1976: The first Royal Oak for women, launched when only the 5402 “Jumbo” existed.

• Production: Approximately 3,889 pieces produced, mainly between 1976–1980, with sales extending into the early 1990s.

• Versions: Initially offered in steel, later extended to two-tone and precious metal variants from 1977 onward.

• “Royal Oak II”: Some examples bear this engraving on the caseback, underscoring its role in broadening the Royal Oak family.

Key Specifications

• Reference: 8638SA (Gold & Steel)

• Case: 29 mm, sharp two-tone construction, sapphire crystal

• Movement: Audemars Piguet Cal. 2062 – automatic, serviced

• Dial: Blue tropical with tritium lume, mustard patina

• Bracelet: Integrated two-tone, approx. 15.5–16 cm wrist size

• Crown: Original signed AP crown

A Collector’s Audemars Piguet

The Royal Oak Lady 8638SA is more than just a downsized version of the original icon—it is a milestone in AP’s history, marking the brand’s entry into refined sports luxury watches for women. With its tropical dial, original tritium, and sharp two-tone case, this example is a highly collectible piece that embodies the spirit of the Royal Oak’s earliest years.